History of Champaner
– Pavagadh
Champaner – Pavagadh is located in the
Panchmahal district of Gujarat, India. The site is 50 kilometres east of
Baroda and 68 km south of
Godhra. It is
approximately 180 km by road from Ahmedabad (provided one goes by a two wheeler
avoiding an expressway route). Champaner is located at
about 1.6 km to the south of Pavagadh
Hill. Pavagadh Hill rises to a height of 2,600 ft, has a geological
setting of reddish-yellow stone, and is considered to be one of the oldest rock
formations in India.
Champaner was
declared as a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO in the year 2004 and the whole
area is covered and protected by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). The
Champaner – Pavagadh Architectural Park depicts about Hindu-Muslim cultural and
architectural transition defining early Mughal era of 15
th and 16
th
century as per UNESCO inscription. This historical heritage site is studded
with archaeological, historic and living cultural heritage, monuments,
fortress, bastions, palaces, entrance gates and arches, mosques, tombs and
temples of Hindu deities, which start from the hill top of Pavagadh extending
into the Champaner town. The highest point of the Pavagadh hill presents undulating
360 degree forested topography in the direction of
Jambughoda Wildlife Sanctuary which is 20 km from Champaner.
The Pavagadh Hill has a historical fort where the ancient Ambaji temple (Kalika
Mata) is situated at 2,600 ft summit. It is an important Hindu pilgrimage
shrine and is one of the 51 Shakti Peethas. Lakhs of pilgrims visit here every
year during festival time; however, most of them are unaware about the
historical importance of the Champaner town being a World Heritage site. The
path to the summit passes through many old gates and cuts through staircase-like
natural ledges of rock with precipitous sides. Midway up this path is a plateau
area strewn with boulders. Above this point there is a very steep scarp with a
marble temple and two lantern towers. The gradient has undulating hillocks and
plateaus with steep rock exposures formed by ancient volcanic eruptions and
lava flows centuries ago.
Champaner also
includes eleven different types of buildings protected by the ASI and UNESCO
viz., the Palace of Sultan Mehmud Begada, grandson of Ahmed Shah, who founded Ahmedabad city, Jama Masjid, Kabutarkhana, Maqbara, Maqbara Mandvi,
Maqbara near Patidar Village, Malik Sandal Ni Vav, Hathikhana, Sindh Mata,
Sikander Ka Reuza, Babakhan Ki Dargah, Nau Kuan Sat Vavdi, and Chandrakala Vav.
Sultan Mehmood Begada of Gujarat had built and ruled over this historical city
of Champaner for 26 years in the 16th century before Mughal Emperor
Humayun attacked and destroyed it in 1537. All these monuments are located at
the foothills of the region and being maintained and looked after by the ASI. This
is one of the few medieval heritage sites in India with specimens of both
Islamic as well as Hindu architecture. Due to poor funding and sheer neglect;
most of the monuments are in dilapidated conditions and in ruins, surrounded by
filth and stinking garbage.
Pavagadh
was one of the strongest hill fortresses in western India in the 15th century
under the Khichi Chauhan Rajput rulers. It was attacked and captured by Sultan
Mahmud Begada of Gujarat in 1485 A.D. after a 20-month siege. Begada then
shifted his capital from Ahmedabad to Champaner and ruled for 26 years before
Mughal Emperor Humayun attacked and ransacked it in 1537. During his reign,
Sultan Mehmud Begda employed thousands of artisans, carvers and gardeners who
erected mosques, palaces, pleasure pavilions and lakes in Champaner-Pavagadh
that has few parallels in the pre-Mughal Islamic period.
The
temple of Lord Lakulish (believed to be an incarnation of Lord Shiva /
Pashupatinath) in the middle of the lake is considered to be the most ancient
piece of architecture in Pavagadh. The intricately stone carved artifacts on
the walls of this temple are stated to be over thousand years old. The
Pashvanath Digambar Jain temples and ruined remains of Rajput palaces are a
testimony to the glory of the Rajput rulers who built them before being
destroyed by Sultan Begada's army.
Most of the
geographical area is covered by forest which is under the Forest Department.
The temple trust and other government bodies (Gujarat Tourism Development Corporation Ltd.) provide lodging and boarding facilities to the tourists and
pilgrims. One can even stay at the private guest houses being provided by 3000
odd inhabitants of Champaner town which are cheap, affordable and easily available.
Many of Digambar Jain Temples with beautiful intricate carvings and temples of
Hindu deities attract lots of religious people to the place all around the
year.
My
Rendezvous with Champaner-Pavagadh
Approaching holidays are always filled with happiness,
excitement and confusion, simultaneously, to me. Happiness, as we all have been
looking forward to it since long to take a break from the monotonous routine
life and confusion, as to where to travel keeping in mind all parameters like,
place of visit, time, financial budget etc etc…
Like every year, this year too we had discussed about a trip
somewhere during Diwali holidays. We were in close conversations for more than
a month before the start of holidays as to where and how to proceed. Options
were too many, trekking to Himalayas in winters which we had envisaged many
times but somehow it never worked! Next, to go to Diu, relax and chill out, as
it was a nearby place from our home town. Third option, Goa ! - must be awesome
during Diwali as we had made a trip to the land of beautiful beaches last Diwali
only and thought of revisiting so that we could add missed out places in our
itinerary (sadly, we couldn’t make it to the Dudhsagar Water Falls due to
over-rush at that time). Well, unfortunately, due to some unforeseen reasons,
the plans for long trip got cancelled again and we were left with nothing but a
day’s trip to nearby hill station of Gujarat - Champaner – Pavagadh!
We decided to leave in the early morning for Champaner by two
wheeler on the next day of Diwali which is Gujarati New Year. It was pitch dark
at 6 am when we took the way towards state highway, avoiding Ahmedabad –
Vadodara Expressway. After a few minutes’ drive ahead and we met this beautiful
sunrise en route!
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| Welcoming beautiful sunrise on the way |
The
morning was really very cool and breezy and we could not hold ourselves back to
take a small break here to click few pictures of rising sun…!
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| The start of the day was awesome and we hoped the same for the rest of the days’ journey. |
The
journey to Champaner – Pawagadh involves many small villages and towns on the
way and we passed through Kheda, Nadiad, Anand while taking a small breakfast
cum tea break at Ode village. Ode is a small lovely village with lots of
greenery all around and most of the villagers are farmers here. We felt like
staying back for few more hours and enjoying the beautiful greenery and
soothing peace here! We had very tasty and spicy Sev Usal – Paav with hot
ginger tea here and left again towards Halol route. (I insist everyone here, if
you are passing by Ode, please do not miss to try tasty, tangy, spicy, hot Usal
Paav at the cross roads of the village! It is just amazing !).
After
30 minutes drive, we entered into Chandrapur Industrial Area, Halol. Chandrapur
has many manufacturing plants here, like General Motors and Saint Gobain etc
and the same can be seen while passing towards Halol. Another few minutes’
drive and we were at the base of Champaner at 10 hrs.!
Champaner
is a plateau region surrounded by strong rocky hills which were formed by
volcanic eruption thousands of years ago. There is a small bus depot here which
brings tourists and pilgrims from across. The frequency of state transport
buses is very few, however, during festival times; the buses are jam packed
with religious devotees. There is a small vehicle parking area and a few stalls
for snacks and tea here. After a cup of hot tea and biscuits, we started….
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| Atak Gate en route to Manchi, one can see here how the place which has been declared as World Heritage Site by the UNESCO is being maintained by the ASI. There are inscriptions made by people all over the monuments everywhere. Even the surrounding area is unclean and lots of wild bushes have grown giving a neglecting attitude. |
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Entrance gate to the fort - we can see lots of plastic wrappers and bottles lying here unattended
The
trekking route starts right from here through the forest area. The gradient is
low and canopied with lots of tress making it quite cool and relaxing to trek.
After an hour’s trek, we arrived at Manchi. For those who are unable to trek,
they can take private jeeps from Champaner bus stand up to Manchi. Manchi is
the last road-head and no vehicle is allowed beyond this point (it is a dead
end for vehicular traffic). There are affordable Guest Houses provided by the Gujarat Tourism Development Corporation Ltd. Advance booking
is required when you are visiting during festival time due to heavy rush of
pilgrims. Here, one finds many shops for refreshments and after a short break,
we headed again towards Pavagadh. For those who are unable to trek, they can
take ropeway up to the top of the hill. Ropeway at Pavagadh is stated as the
highest ropeway of India.
|
The
trek route beyond Manchi is boulder zone. One finds many shops on both sides
providing tea, snacks, religious audio-video cassettes, prasad counters, photo
studio etc. There are loud speakers playing religious songs of Kalika Mata and pilgrims
are enjoying with full fun and enthusiasm. Trekking route encounters many
ancient forts and durgah, arches and gates, temples and Jain Derasars. This
whole region from Champaner to the hill top of Pavagadh is declared as World
Heritage site by the UNESCO and it is governed by the Archaeological Survey of
India. The views are absolutely stunning from here providing 360 degree bird-eye-view
of the surrounding area which is also under control of the Forest Department.
One finds greenery of the forest, rocky hills of the mountains and plateau,
ancient historical monuments built by Hindu as well as Mughal Emperors, all at
one place and at one sight! Utterly satisfying and soothing to the soul ! One
can view the Jambughoda Wild Life Sanctuary which is just 20 kms. from here.
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| Entrance gate leading to Manchi - one can again observe here very pathetic maintenance of the historic monument |
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| Carvings on reddish yellow stone |
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| Carvings on reddish yellow stone |
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| Saat Kamaan (Seven Arches) |
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| Saat Kamaan (Seven Arches) |
View from Saat Kamaan to the right side is simply amazing ! One can see the entire view of the forest area leading as far as Jambughoda Wildlife Sanctuary
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| View from Saat Kamaan |
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| View from Saat Kamaan |
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| View from Saat Kamaan |
We
reached Pavagadh around lunch time. The rush of tourists was very heavy and
there was a long queue for Darshan. The temple of Kalika Mata is on the summit
of the Pavagadh hill where she is worshipped as goddess Ambaji Mata, Durga or
Chandi. There are mainly 3 Shakti Pithas in Gujarat.
The legend of Shakti Peethas originates when Raja
Daksha, father of Sati, performed a great yagna inviting all gods and goddesses
excepting Lord Shiva. Sati, the consort of Shiva, attended the yagna against
the will of Shiva and was insulted by her father, Daksha. Consequently, unable
to bear this, she immolated herself into the yagna kund. Seeing this, Lord
Shiva picked up remains of Sati’s body and performed Tandava – the dance of
destruction - all over the Universe. Seeing this, other Gods who were present
there, tried to pacify Shiva, in the process, the Chakra in Lord Vishnu’s hand
fell and cut across Sati’s body, the remains of her body fell all over the
places in India and wherever they fell, those spots are called as Shakti Peetha
today.
Amongst
3 Shakti Peethas in Gujarat, one is Ambika or Ambaji Temple which is located in
Danta taluka of Banaskantha district. This Shakti Pith lies in the Aravalli /
Arasur mountain ranges which are on the border line of Mount Abu in Rajasthan
to the north of Gujarat. The heart of Sati was believed to have fallen here and
hence, this is regarded as the most revered and sacred Shakti Peethas of
Gujarat.
Second
is the Kalika Mata of Pavagadh. She is worshipped here as Kalika Mata or Durga
or Chandi Devi. Legend goes that the toe (some mention as her left breast) of Sati
is believed to have fallen here at Pavagadh Shakti Peeth.
Third,
Bala at Becharaji or Bahucharaji is called as Bahuchar Mata or Bahucharaji Mata
which is a taluka of the same name in Mehsana district of Gujarat. A hand of
Sati was said to have fallen here and hence it is called sidha Shakti Peeth.
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| Jain temples built by Rajput rulers |
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| Jain temples built by Rajput rulers |
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| Jain temples built by Rajput rulers |
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| Jain temples built by Rajput rulers |
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| Jain temples built by Rajput rulers |
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| Jain temples built by Rajput rulers |
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| Jain temples built by Rajput rulers |
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| Jain temples built by Rajput rulers |
The
summit of Pavagadh Shakti Peeth offers a very mesmerizing and amazing view.
One can gaze till endless horizon up to far end and get the most satisfying
glimpses of the topography.
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| Lakulish Temple |
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| History of Lakulish temple |
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| Beautiful carvings on Lakulish Temple |
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| Jain temple at the base of Pavagadh |
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| Notice put up by the ASI - Plastic garbage littered at the bottom - picture says it all ! |
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| Temple at the base of Pavagadh |
While putting all these pictures on my blog, these is a sole objective behind this gesture - to make an honest and sincere appeal to all fellow travellers to maintain and preserve the dignity and value of the place which has been awarded the highest ranking by the UNESCO and ASI. This is not to be taken as a criticism but to construe as an awareness and take it in a true and right spirit.
I remember having read on the internet some time back, when a German traveller by the name Richard visiting Champaner - Pavagadh and was harassed by utter negligence and disgusting filth lying everywhere and all over. He has put his honest and frank reviews and concerns in the attached link below, however, it makes us all to ponder over this shameful incident narrated by a foreigner. It definitely demands deep thinking and stern corrective action while we promote tourism at national and international level with all hype that we ignore such comments put on online portal for the world to see...
http://www.tripadvisor.in/ShowUserReviews-g1147557-d3477937-r147918849-Champaner_Pavagadh_Archaeological_Park-Pavagadh_Gujarat.html#REVIEWS
It
was truly satisfying having made a visit to our Kuldevi temple after a gap of
almost 20 years (my previous visit was in 1994 with my father). However, the
whole of Champaner and Pavagadh region offers more than what we had seen. There
are still many architectural monuments which we missed out due to lack of time
as most of our time had gone in trekking right up to the summit which drained
all our energy. Having said this, needless to mention here that, as our
religious journey has ended, now it’s time to explore the geography of the
place at length in years to come by…
